The Extensive Beginner's Guild to Big Sur
Travel Tips, Tricks, Secrets, and Know How
Big Sur, California! This 70+ mile stretch of west coast gold is something to be treasured and seen at least once in a life time. Anyone eyeing out the challenge can expect to find all of California's best attributes crashing together into a masterpiece only God himself could have created.
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| Photographed: Tina Fog in a coastal redwood grove. |
From towering redwoods coated in evergreen moss, stretching high into the coastal foggy skies, to picturesque beaches pulled right out of the movies, draped in 70° sunshine, soft sand, and rocky cliffs that pour into the emerald waters; nothing could be more amazing to experience than Big Sur.
On a last minute decision and with almost no knowledge of the task at hand, my now fiancée, Tina, and I decided to drive up to Big Sur for the end of the summer. Throughout the trip we ended up experiencing some of the most stressful, as well as some of the most amazing and memorable things you could imagine. Since then I have been asked time and time again how it was, where to go, etc. and so I have decided to try and help out my fellow friends and travelers alike by offering some advice on the do's, dont's, hints, and tricks to experiencing one of the most amazing, romantic places on earth.
As you read through this you'll notice I focus primarily on many of the larger land marks and places to stay if you are planning on car camping. There are many other places to stay, and hundreds of miles of back country trails to backpack if you choose to do so, but we'll leave that for another time. Sorry for the length in advance, I'm just really trying to help you out. So here we go!
Planning!
Where to Stay
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| Our campsite in Ventana Campground coated in fog |
Tina and I decided camping would be the cheapest and frankly easiest way to to truly see Big Sur and all its beauty, that is until we almost came up short on a campsite for the second half of our trip. Somehow, by the grace of God, we ended up with a lucky spot to stay that was to our budgets liking.
Where you sleep will also depend on what you want to do and places you want to see, which I elaborate more on later. Big Sur has a lot to experience, and I recommend splitting it up into at least 2 days if you can. On our trip, we stayed 4 days and still weren't able to see everything. Easiest way to solve this is by splitting the northern and southern sections of the highway. On our trip we started out north in Ventana Campground, a private campground just south of Pfieffer Big Sur, and then headed south to camp in Kirk Creek Campground, just below Lime Kiln State Park. This dividing helped us manage places to go and see for our time frame and should help you see one area at a time, while not feeling rushed in the car racing against the crowds or sunset.
You will also need to consider the road time. 25 miles on highway 101 will take the same amount of time as 50 miles elsewhere, making over 70 miles a road a task to consider, especially when you add in the time for stopping at each point of interest. The twisting roads are a damper on your MPG and speed, and it's worse when it's busy or there's construction taking place. In the summer the highway was littered with construction on every bridge, and I found myself getting frustrated with the out-of-state drivers who could not comprehend how to drive on roads that don't go straight. I mean 15 mph? Seriously? It only gets worse with weather. In the summer when it's warm, fog builds on the water and pushes against the steep mountainous cliffs, sometimes creating white out conditions. The clearest times of year are often fall believe it or not.
Alright, so here it is! The fun part! Places of interest and important stops and mile markers along the way! Easiest way for me to do this is going to be by location from South to North as I first came across them. I will give as accurate of distances as I can as presented in google maps for universal understanding, and the important details of each. I've also split up North from South to help with planning where to stay. With no more delay...
Just after passing Hearst Castle and not quite yet in the Big Sur area, this beach is a must stop. Here massive elephant seals sun bathe on the sand, often times with pups in the fall and winter. In the summer you can expect to see some of the males fighting in the water over the turf and the females. The trails around the seals are fenced to those who want to approach the massive beasts from doing so. Males, or bulls as they're calls, can weigh over 6000 pounds and reach lengths of 16 feet. So be warned, don't try to mess with these guys. You'll immediately hear the almost metallic gurgling sound being emitted from their blubbery trunks. And then, the God awful smell will hit you. Stay up wind if available. For anyone who would rather see wild animals in their own habitat, instead of paying $100 a head for a paper map and a choreographed dance in a cage, these amazingly disgusting and awesome animals are a must. They're truly a great sight to see! ...God they're weird though.
cliff trail that runs to the beach. A large vein of Jade runs down the cliffs straight into the small ocean cove, hence the name. The area is protected by the national forest service and they do not support mining or chiseling of the rock, but if you keep an eye out you can find a small piece here and there. Getting down the cliff side to the cove itself is a bit steep task (Get it? 'Cause it's a cliff...) and includes a rope to assist your decent and assent to and from the rocky beach beach below. Once down there you can find small bits of jade, and even some red abalone shells if you're lucky like me. Yes that's gloating. DON'T GO AT HIGH TIDE. The waves will crush you, there is nowhere to go. Look up a tide schedule online in advance, or use my favorite link found here.
There are other backpacker friendly spots down the the northern side of the grounds, and are meant for those hiking up the coast. These spots are fairly cheaper than the rest at $5 a person instead of by site, but have no parking. These are also first-come first-serve and are pretty close to each other with less of a view. The campground itself sits on a cliff, and has a small trail that goes through some brush to a rocky shore below. Careful of mosquitoes and ticks if you camp here, both are found all over the area, but are common all over Big Sur anyways. Be sure to check your dogs and your neck where I had one crawling (shivers). Nasty bugs. ALSO! Beware of the raccoons... I mean this. They have learned to get into everything. Literally. While turning our backs for 5 minutes at most, the little furry bastards opened our cooler and ate all of our eggs, hot dogs, lunch meat, cheese, etc. We weren't the only ones either. Even a friend of mine who went months later had the same issue, so they're there for the long haul. The signs in camp are not kidding, they're not even afraid of your dog. Having been said, if you can look past these minor deals, it's a great place to camp. Just look at the sunset over the water!
Roughly 2 miles past Kirk Creek you'll come across what I consider to be the hidden gem of Big Sur. Limekiln is a small state park that is not funded like all the others, so your park entrance fees, camp fees, and donations are their only source of revenue. Here there is also no area to park your car off the road without risking a ticket, so get ready to pay. It is named after the giant lime kilns that were used back in the late 1800's to mine the limestone out of the canyon. You can still hike to these giant decaying structures today on the hike in the park.
When you pull in you'll see the campground is in two parts. The western half is all about the beach. Campers can literally set up their tents on the tiny shoreline under neath the highway (101 runs above your head, kind of odd and awesome), and partners with the creek that pours into the ocean. While cool to see, it is not the prettiest and blisters when it's sunny. The nicer sites are East, up to the right in the canyon sitting under the trees next to the cool creek and redwoods, also where you park your car for the hike. Campground amenities include running water, showers, and restrooms. All sites are reserve only on reserveamerica.
The hike up Fern Creek Trail is a short gorgeous trip. Stretching 2 miles long, it weaves through redwood groves and ferns, crossing the creek a couple times on wooden foot bridges. At the fork in the trail, you can go right to a 100 foot waterfall, or left to the limekilns. Do both for a quick 15 minutes added time.
Lucia, 2 miles further north, is a cliff side, "town" (if you can call it that). The quaint, white Lucia Lodge and Restaurant, built in the 1930's, face southwest down the picturesque coastline, and is a great area to stay, but at a heavy price. The restaurant, not worth the money, but worth the views, features indoor dining with a fireplace and panoramic ocean views through the windows, or you can eat on the deck overlooking the entire southern coastline. While there, Tina and I saw whales passing by, and even a the rare California Condor with a distinct wing span and red number tagging. The area also has a surprisingly fair priced mini mart and gift shop. Inside are homemade cookies made by a nice little old lady who also works the cash register. Well worth the price and a good conversation. More info can be found on their website.
Home to the famed McWay Falls, this pristine little park sits immediately off the highway after a quick left and right turn, 3.7 miles north of the hot springs. You'll know you're there when you see 4 dozen cars parked on the side of the road and people darting across the lanes in traffic. Please drive slow through the area. The falls are an easy walk from the highway if you choose to avoid the parking payment, though I recommend you don't due the to dangers of parking on the side of the road. Try to go early if you can to avoid crowds, but also know this
could mean fog like the photo to the right.
Partington Cove
It is around this time, 3.6 miles north of Julia Pfeiffer Burns park, you will finally begin to pick up cell phone reception again and find Ventana Campground. My fiancee and I ended up staying here for the first two days of our trip, and it was worth every penny. The campground itself sits off to the right hand side, east, of highway 101 North, and down a steep driveway to the kiosk where you can check in. The campground is privately owned, tents only, and costs a little more than the state park campgrounds, but is well worth the money for the gorgeous grove of redwoods you end up sleeping under, as well as the wonderful silence of the area. Amenities also include fully functional toilets, showers, and running water from the taps. We were even lucky enough one morning to wake up to a canopy full of fog and light rays streaking down to the campground floor. Make a reservation online at www.ventanacamping.com. I ended up requesting a spot I found through yelp reviews, as the campground is a little narrow and sites are close together, I wanted a place with more privacy. Also feel free to call in advance and speak with the owners, very personable people that are happy to help!
The restaurant connected to the INN and spa above the camp ground, while on the pricier side, features a paroramic hill top view looking down on the ocean and forests of the area. Lunch is served from 12 - 3 pm, mid day 3 - 5 pm, and dinner from 6 - 9 pm. Reservations are strongly suggested. The hotel itself, also on the pricey side, is a romance destination for those looking to stay in a room and not a tent, with lavish amenities including fire places, hot tubs, yoga and fitness rooms, even two pools. (one clothing optional for those who wish to know) The hotels spa is also a destination favorite, and more detail and reservations can be made at www.ventanainn.com.
4.3 miles from Pfeiffer Big Sur lodge, you'll find another state park, Andrew Molera. Here you can also get campsites on a first come first serve but unlike Pfeiffer Big Sur, they are primitive sites. In order to get to them, you have to park back at the entrance and hike your stuff in. Amenities here include vault toilets and fire rings. This park is also much less forested than Pfeiffer Big Sur, featuring more lowland coastal shrubs and oak trees, but none the less is beautiful. Its more primitive, less developed feel brings a sense of what that whole area must have felt like before development.
Big Sur, is something beyond description and a place that has to be experienced first hand. Rocky cliffs and sandy beaches, redwood forests and waterfalls, dense fog and California sunshine; no matter where you go and what you see here it will likely be beyond your imagination, it definitely was for me.
While I hope to have hit some of the major stops not too far out of the way, I do know that there are plenty of other places I missed, skipped, or don't yet know of. Please, PLEASE, feel free to comment with any more places you know of, and share this to better assist those who don't yet know what Big Sur is, or what going there means and requires.
Remember if you do come up with the short end of the stick and no place for the night, sleeping in your car on the side of the road is never aloud by highway patrol, not to mention it's dangerous on the cliff side of the narrow 2 lane highway. While there, we saw a couple bad accidents, and a car or two being ticketed. We also happened to see plenty of people daring enough to chance the ticket and fortunate enough to not get caught. Either way, save yourself the stress and consider your safety.
Camp grounds such as the one in Pfieffer Big Sur State Park can fill up as early as 6 months in advance, so check for availability before you go on reserveamerica. Other campgrounds like Kirk Creek Campground offer online reservations as well, along with walk ups, and even spots for backpackers on the nearby hiking trails across the highway. These walk up options ended up being our saving grace, but we had to be in the campground first thing in the morning to get one. We got lucky to put it in simple terms, but definitely not how you want to start off your "relaxing" day in paradise.
Time Frame
You will also need to consider the road time. 25 miles on highway 101 will take the same amount of time as 50 miles elsewhere, making over 70 miles a road a task to consider, especially when you add in the time for stopping at each point of interest. The twisting roads are a damper on your MPG and speed, and it's worse when it's busy or there's construction taking place. In the summer the highway was littered with construction on every bridge, and I found myself getting frustrated with the out-of-state drivers who could not comprehend how to drive on roads that don't go straight. I mean 15 mph? Seriously? It only gets worse with weather. In the summer when it's warm, fog builds on the water and pushes against the steep mountainous cliffs, sometimes creating white out conditions. The clearest times of year are often fall believe it or not.
I just want to add, I don't blame the others for slowing down to looking at the beauty of it all, but just pull over for the love of God. It was a real issue. All in all be considerate, and plan accordingly.
Misc. Last Plans
On the ride up or down get gas and food where you can! I can't stress this enough for those on a budget. There are only a hand full of places for these amenities in between Carmel and SLO, and they charge you like it's the last of it on the planet! Don't pay $10 for eggs or $20 for a small camp bottle of propane. And don't be like me, forced to pay $6 a gallon for gas...
Make your last minute calls; cell service has been executed along the highway. Between Ventana and San Simeon the facebook notifications and snap chat videos of your stupid burrito no one cares about die off into the pre-2000's. But more importantly, your GPS stops! Ermagerd!! What to do!?!
Buy yourself an old fashioned map and carry a hard copy of directions to your destination. Don't know what a map is? Ask any small child who watched Dora the Explorer, they'll help you. Yes maps still exist, just ask any gift shop, gas station, or better yet forest ranger station. It's what used to be done, you can make it. Best way to know exactly where you are is to set your car's trip meter at a location, and take distances from there for those side of the road stops you just must see. Stay sharp and here we go!
Where to Go!
Alright, so here it is! The fun part! Places of interest and important stops and mile markers along the way! Easiest way for me to do this is going to be by location from South to North as I first came across them. I will give as accurate of distances as I can as presented in google maps for universal understanding, and the important details of each. I've also split up North from South to help with planning where to stay. With no more delay...Southern Big Sur
Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery
Just after passing Hearst Castle and not quite yet in the Big Sur area, this beach is a must stop. Here massive elephant seals sun bathe on the sand, often times with pups in the fall and winter. In the summer you can expect to see some of the males fighting in the water over the turf and the females. The trails around the seals are fenced to those who want to approach the massive beasts from doing so. Males, or bulls as they're calls, can weigh over 6000 pounds and reach lengths of 16 feet. So be warned, don't try to mess with these guys. You'll immediately hear the almost metallic gurgling sound being emitted from their blubbery trunks. And then, the God awful smell will hit you. Stay up wind if available. For anyone who would rather see wild animals in their own habitat, instead of paying $100 a head for a paper map and a choreographed dance in a cage, these amazingly disgusting and awesome animals are a must. They're truly a great sight to see! ...God they're weird though.
Ragged Point
Roughly the southern most point of Big Sur, this cliff side town sits 15 miles north of Hearst Castle. In the town is an Inn, a couple gift shops and food stands, an arm-and-leg priced gas station, public restrooms, beach access, and some great views of the ocean. DO NOT GET THE COFFEE. Just trust me here.
You can try and get a room with an ocean or garden room on there website here. You'll notice from this point on the change in the nature of the highway. It will twist and turn along the cliffs for the next couple hours so be ready. You'll also notice there is no cell service. (oh no!..)
You can try and get a room with an ocean or garden room on there website here. You'll notice from this point on the change in the nature of the highway. It will twist and turn along the cliffs for the next couple hours so be ready. You'll also notice there is no cell service. (oh no!..)
Salmon Creek Falls
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| Salmon Creek Falls trail head off hwy 101 Image Source: Google Maps |
3.7 miles north of Ragged Point, Salmon Creek Falls sits on the right side of the road, up a quick 5-10 minute walk from the horse shoe shaped turn off. You'll see a brown sign on the side of the road pointing you in the right direction, as well as to some other trail heads. There is also usually a car or two in the parking area, but if not keep an eye out as it's easy to miss. The falls themselves are small but beautiful, featuring a pool large enough at the base for a couple people to soak in. Drop in on Google Maps to see for yourself.
Gorda by the Sea
12 miles from Ragged Point, Gorda is another small cliff side town with a post office, small restaurant, the Gorda Spring Resort with loft style rooms or even guest house rentals for decent prices, a minimart, and another expensive gas station. It's also one of the only areas with an ATM, keep that in mind as many of the parks and campgrounds will only take cash. The minimart here was probably one of the best priced out of all the rest of Big Sur, but that's not saying much. The restaurant was never open when we came by, so I can't speak for it.
12 miles from Ragged Point, Gorda is another small cliff side town with a post office, small restaurant, the Gorda Spring Resort with loft style rooms or even guest house rentals for decent prices, a minimart, and another expensive gas station. It's also one of the only areas with an ATM, keep that in mind as many of the parks and campgrounds will only take cash. The minimart here was probably one of the best priced out of all the rest of Big Sur, but that's not saying much. The restaurant was never open when we came by, so I can't speak for it.
Tree Bones Resort
An iconic stay for those who have seen the photos or been before, Tree Bones Resort sits 1 mile from Gorda and is a grouping of private Yurt tents that sit on the hill side high above the highway looking over the ocean. This combination of easement and camping is a term they consider, "Glamping", or glamorous camping. For those looking to rough it, they do also have pack-in campsites, a luxurious plot of land I must say. The resort also includes a the Wild Coast Restaurant, and the Oceanview Sushi Bar. Other resort amenities include a yoga studio, massage studio, and guided tours of the area. Reservations go fast and should be made long in advance on there website here.
Jade Cove
One of my personal favorite spots to stop and see, Jade Cove is 3.7 miles north of Gorda. The area is beach side, west, of the highway. You will climb a small wooden stair case over a fence down to the
cliff trail that runs to the beach. A large vein of Jade runs down the cliffs straight into the small ocean cove, hence the name. The area is protected by the national forest service and they do not support mining or chiseling of the rock, but if you keep an eye out you can find a small piece here and there. Getting down the cliff side to the cove itself is a bit steep task (Get it? 'Cause it's a cliff...) and includes a rope to assist your decent and assent to and from the rocky beach beach below. Once down there you can find small bits of jade, and even some red abalone shells if you're lucky like me. Yes that's gloating. DON'T GO AT HIGH TIDE. The waves will crush you, there is nowhere to go. Look up a tide schedule online in advance, or use my favorite link found here.
Sand Dollar Day Use Beach/ Plaskett Creek Campground
Less than 1/4 mile from Jade Cove is Sand Dollar Beach and Plaskett Creek Campground. This is one of the only sandy beaches in Big Sur, and a great surf spot. The Beach is pay to park, day use only, but you can park your car on the west side of the road to avoid that if you want. The campground is not very nice in my opinion, very open with close contact to other camp sites, but close to the beach for conveinence. I am almost certain it is a full hook-up campground for those with trailers and RV's, but I would double check. It sits just on the other side of the highway opposite of the ocean. Careful crossing the busy highway 101. It is also one of the busiest in Big Sur, and is only reservable online at reserveamerica.
Kirk Creek Campground
Where Tina and I ended up staying for a night, Kirk Creek is a beautiful little campground with every spot having a view of the ocean and gorgeous sunsets. It sits 5.2 miles north of Sand Dollar. Amenities include vault toilets, no water, and the camp host sells good firewood bundles for $5. All but 4 of the sites in the campground are reservable, and I recommend if you plan to stay here you do just that and secure a spot. The only 4 first-come first-serve car sites are to your left as you enter the campground. We were lucky enough to grab one of these for our last two nights in Big Sur, but almost lost it to some others who tried to cover up our tags after we had paid. Yes it gets crazy.
There are other backpacker friendly spots down the the northern side of the grounds, and are meant for those hiking up the coast. These spots are fairly cheaper than the rest at $5 a person instead of by site, but have no parking. These are also first-come first-serve and are pretty close to each other with less of a view. The campground itself sits on a cliff, and has a small trail that goes through some brush to a rocky shore below. Careful of mosquitoes and ticks if you camp here, both are found all over the area, but are common all over Big Sur anyways. Be sure to check your dogs and your neck where I had one crawling (shivers). Nasty bugs. ALSO! Beware of the raccoons... I mean this. They have learned to get into everything. Literally. While turning our backs for 5 minutes at most, the little furry bastards opened our cooler and ate all of our eggs, hot dogs, lunch meat, cheese, etc. We weren't the only ones either. Even a friend of mine who went months later had the same issue, so they're there for the long haul. The signs in camp are not kidding, they're not even afraid of your dog. Having been said, if you can look past these minor deals, it's a great place to camp. Just look at the sunset over the water!
Limekiln State Park
Roughly 2 miles past Kirk Creek you'll come across what I consider to be the hidden gem of Big Sur. Limekiln is a small state park that is not funded like all the others, so your park entrance fees, camp fees, and donations are their only source of revenue. Here there is also no area to park your car off the road without risking a ticket, so get ready to pay. It is named after the giant lime kilns that were used back in the late 1800's to mine the limestone out of the canyon. You can still hike to these giant decaying structures today on the hike in the park. 
When you pull in you'll see the campground is in two parts. The western half is all about the beach. Campers can literally set up their tents on the tiny shoreline under neath the highway (101 runs above your head, kind of odd and awesome), and partners with the creek that pours into the ocean. While cool to see, it is not the prettiest and blisters when it's sunny. The nicer sites are East, up to the right in the canyon sitting under the trees next to the cool creek and redwoods, also where you park your car for the hike. Campground amenities include running water, showers, and restrooms. All sites are reserve only on reserveamerica.The hike up Fern Creek Trail is a short gorgeous trip. Stretching 2 miles long, it weaves through redwood groves and ferns, crossing the creek a couple times on wooden foot bridges. At the fork in the trail, you can go right to a 100 foot waterfall, or left to the limekilns. Do both for a quick 15 minutes added time.
Lucia Lodge
Lucia, 2 miles further north, is a cliff side, "town" (if you can call it that). The quaint, white Lucia Lodge and Restaurant, built in the 1930's, face southwest down the picturesque coastline, and is a great area to stay, but at a heavy price. The restaurant, not worth the money, but worth the views, features indoor dining with a fireplace and panoramic ocean views through the windows, or you can eat on the deck overlooking the entire southern coastline. While there, Tina and I saw whales passing by, and even a the rare California Condor with a distinct wing span and red number tagging. The area also has a surprisingly fair priced mini mart and gift shop. Inside are homemade cookies made by a nice little old lady who also works the cash register. Well worth the price and a good conversation. More info can be found on their website.
If you haven't already, you'll notice there still isn't any cell phone reception, but have no fear, throw some change in the payphone out front, or charge a collect call to a loved one if they're nice enough. I know its not touch screen, but I think you'll figure it out... just push the damn buttons guys. This is also what I consider the half way point up the Big Sur coastline, and if you haven't already, take a break and stretch your legs out.
Northern Big Sur
China Basin Beach
This little beach picnic area sits down a small road off highway 101, 3.9 miles north of Lucia. This spot is a good area to stretch and relax from the twists and turns of the highway, eat some lunch, and even use the restroom with its camp style vault toilets. Another nice plus is the parking lot views of the ocean crashing into the rocky cliffs are normally all to yourself with very few visitors stopping by.
Slates (Esalen) Hot Springs
10 miles north of Lucia, this area is well known for the awesome health and wellness benefits of their hot springs. While open to the public, a reservation and payment is needed during the day time hours, but is open for free use during the early mornings, between 2-5 am early. Check out their website at www.esalen.org/page/esalen-hot-springs.
Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park & McWay Falls
Home to the famed McWay Falls, this pristine little park sits immediately off the highway after a quick left and right turn, 3.7 miles north of the hot springs. You'll know you're there when you see 4 dozen cars parked on the side of the road and people darting across the lanes in traffic. Please drive slow through the area. The falls are an easy walk from the highway if you choose to avoid the parking payment, though I recommend you don't due the to dangers of parking on the side of the road. Try to go early if you can to avoid crowds, but also know this
Keep in mind if you've already paid for one state park (i.e. Lime Kiln, Pfeiffer State Park) you get free entrance into every other state park, with the exception of Lime Kiln, which is why I suggest going there first. Parking in the parking lot, you walk maybe 3 minutes under the highway to the falls, or you have the option to do a relatively moderate hike with those ideal redwoods up Ewoldsen Trail, also featuring a creek and Canyon Falls waterfall. This spot is a must stop for those looking for picturesque Instagram moments.
This was one of my favorite spots, and is little spoken of. Sitting 1.8 miles north of the Julia Pfeiffer Burns state park. You'll know you're there when you come across a small horseshoe bend into the hillside, with a small gate on the south side of the highway. Park off the road as far as you can, and head down the dirt road to a small creek and a bridge crossing it. Once across, you'll find a small tunnel with low head clearance taking you through the cliff side to a cove hidden by the hills. On the other side you'll see old rusted steel of what was once a pier, and a bench to sit and watch the waves crash into the rocks. The area is believed to have been utilized for either alcohol smuggling during the prohibition era, or lumber shipments, though the remoteness of the cove lean more towards the alcohol. While there we ran into an older couple, and after scrambling on some of the rocks even saw three little sea otters playing around in the kelp beds. It was a really eye opening moment, and one I suggest you experience.
Ventana Campground, Restaurant, INN and Spa
It is around this time, 3.6 miles north of Julia Pfeiffer Burns park, you will finally begin to pick up cell phone reception again and find Ventana Campground. My fiancee and I ended up staying here for the first two days of our trip, and it was worth every penny. The campground itself sits off to the right hand side, east, of highway 101 North, and down a steep driveway to the kiosk where you can check in. The campground is privately owned, tents only, and costs a little more than the state park campgrounds, but is well worth the money for the gorgeous grove of redwoods you end up sleeping under, as well as the wonderful silence of the area. Amenities also include fully functional toilets, showers, and running water from the taps. We were even lucky enough one morning to wake up to a canopy full of fog and light rays streaking down to the campground floor. Make a reservation online at www.ventanacamping.com. I ended up requesting a spot I found through yelp reviews, as the campground is a little narrow and sites are close together, I wanted a place with more privacy. Also feel free to call in advance and speak with the owners, very personable people that are happy to help!
The restaurant connected to the INN and spa above the camp ground, while on the pricier side, features a paroramic hill top view looking down on the ocean and forests of the area. Lunch is served from 12 - 3 pm, mid day 3 - 5 pm, and dinner from 6 - 9 pm. Reservations are strongly suggested. The hotel itself, also on the pricey side, is a romance destination for those looking to stay in a room and not a tent, with lavish amenities including fire places, hot tubs, yoga and fitness rooms, even two pools. (one clothing optional for those who wish to know) The hotels spa is also a destination favorite, and more detail and reservations can be made at www.ventanainn.com.
Pfeiffer State Beach
A little over a mile past Ventana, keep an eye out on your left for a small road heading west down hill. Take this narrow street, Sycamore Canyon Road, down over 2 miles of one lane canyon to one of the only sandy beaches in Big Sur. The road itself is a little rough and known to flood in areas time to time, but in the right conditions, the scattered groves of redwoods and oaks littered with privately owned cabins make the ride that much nicer. The beach itself holds the famous purple sands and rocky cave formations photographed and posted all over the Internet, a true sight to see. The park charges per vehicle, cash only, and will shut the parking lot down after a maximum of 10 (yes I know only 10) cars fill the lot. The area to park is very narrow and fills fast, so go early and check back throughout the day if you don't get in right away. Evenings also seem to be the best time to go. Another bonus to this beach is that it's dog friendly! Feel free to bring along your loyal companions, and remember to pick up after them. Nobody wants to step in that.
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Just 2.5 mile past Ventana, you'll find the world famous Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park! Famed for its creek side campsites and redwoods, this is what most think of when they plan their trip to Big Sur. The park features over 150 campsites and even a lodge with 61 rooms, conference center, cafe, and market. Some of the recreations include over 8 miles of hiking trails that also connect to the larger Ventana Wilderness. One such trail you've probably heard of being Pfeiffer Falls trail to scenic 60 foot Pfeiffer falls. The trail head sits right next to the lodge, and features grand views of Big Sur Valley as well as Big Sur River Gorge. If you can, secure a campsite through reservation on www.reserveamerica.com, as they don't talk walk-ins, and they book well in advance, despite being such a large campground. Reservations are available as early as 6 months in advance, so don't delay.
Down the road from here you'll also find some privately owned, "campgrounds" (as they call them), cabins and hotel rooms you can try to get a spot at, a small supermarket, and a couple places to eat. However like the rest of the area it'll come at a price. We stopped by the store to pick up a patch for our air mattress, and a snack and it was almost $20. We also got gas here, forgetting to fill up in SLO, and 13 gallons cost almost $70... so with everything I said earlier, GET GAS BEFORE DRIVING THROUGH! Butchered me bad. Past this area the road becomes considerably easier to drive and views become less rocky and more pleasing to the eye.
Andrew Molera State Park
Miles of trails lead you to hillsides, groves of trees, and soft sand perfect for beach combing and sunbathing. Surfers from all around the world also seem to flock here for the perfect sets of waves set by the protective curve of Molera Point, so keep an eye out for some pros on the water. If you don't want to pay, you can park in a turnoff on the side of the highway a little ways past the park entrance, and take the wooden stairwell over the fence and down a dirt road. You'll know you're on the right path when you pass Cooper Cabin, a redwood log cabin built sometime in the mid to early 1800's. Keep on the path walking along Big Sur River until the waters connect. You may need to do a small river crossing but it's all worth it.
Point Sur Light House
Sitting 4.3 miles from Andrew Molera State Park and in the middle of the Sea Otter Game Refuge, this historical light house sits perched on top of a small, pinched spot of coastline above the surrounding area, once used to warn ships of the rugged shores. The site gets beautiful views of the coast in both directions, and tours can be reserved on www.pointsur.org. It does get chilly and tours can take up to 3 hours so bring a jacket and enjoy your time.
Bixby Bridge
Possibly the 2nd most photographed bridge in the world, only to the Golden Gate, Bixby Bridge is one of the longest concrete arch bridges ever made with a total length of 714 feet, a truly remarkable accomplishment for being built in 1932. The bridge is famous for these arches, one measuring 320 feet across. Even so I felt the area lacked a reason to visit it other than to cross the creek. Nearly all the bridges along Big Sur were built in a similar fashion, and some even had much better views. It's size may be the only reason you'd like to pull over and get a photo, or because your Cali-reputation is on the line. The area fills up quick with cars, so be careful of those crossing the road for this iconic stop on their central coast journey.
Garrapata State Park
The last of the state parks before running into Carmel-by-the-Sea, this little gem is as highly overlooked as Lime Kiln State Park in my opinion. Sitting 5 miles north of Bixby Bridge, the park features 2 miles of beach line including Garrapata State Beach, a beach reviewed as the most beautiful and peaceful in all of the Big Sur coast, and miles of hiking trails that include dense redwood forests, mountain summits, and a beautiful canyon of calla lilies, found in the logically named Calla Lily Canyon of the park. The diverse terrain changes from evergreen forest to coastal hillsides make this place a day trip in of itself if you can manage it. The added bonus of proximity to Pfeiffer Big Sur state park leave Garrapata almost completely vacant most of the time, and the beach is dog friendly.
Back to Civilization
By this point you will start picking up Top 40's music on your radio and getting notifications of faces and tacos on your snapchats, and sadly realizing that the end of Big Sur is near. Carmel-by-the-Sea, sitting only 8 miles north of Garrapata, is a beautiful beach side town I recommend you explore when you get the chance, but is also the boarder line of pure wild Central California coastline.
As I said, I believe the first thing you can do in planning this trip is find out how you want to spend it. Whether sleeping in a tent, or yurt, or cliff side cabin, make sure to get a reservation and try to divide the trip up into a minimum of 2 days if you want to actually see Big Sur for more than just a highway. Also remember to fill up your tank before leaving SLO, or Carmel for those of you heading south, and have a map on hand for those times your phone won't work, God forbid.
Big Sur, is something beyond description and a place that has to be experienced first hand. Rocky cliffs and sandy beaches, redwood forests and waterfalls, dense fog and California sunshine; no matter where you go and what you see here it will likely be beyond your imagination, it definitely was for me.While I hope to have hit some of the major stops not too far out of the way, I do know that there are plenty of other places I missed, skipped, or don't yet know of. Please, PLEASE, feel free to comment with any more places you know of, and share this to better assist those who don't yet know what Big Sur is, or what going there means and requires.
I hope you'll have a good trip if you're planning on going, and I hope this helped! Be safe, and have fun.
Feel free to follow my blog as I have many more places to write of, and follow me on Instagram at my personal account below. I am also on Facebook where I share photos, mini stories, and local meet-ups and hikes on my photography page listed below.
Nicholas C. Lanham
aka Lumberjack Nick
aka Lumberjack Nick
Personal Instagram: @Lumberjack_Nick
Facebook: @Lumberjack Nick Photography
#LumberjackNick #AStepataTime
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